A few years ago I purchased a 1985 vintage JET 12 X 36 BD metal lathe. This is a wonderful machine for the type of lathe work I perform in my home shop. But it used a 230V AC motor. I had to rewire my shop to connect it to 230V. This wasn’t a
Category Archives: Machine Tools / Welding
Like many of you Home Shop Machinists, shop space is at a premium. My shop is located in my garage where I also store a few motorcycles and my vintage sports car. A big fear I have is one day turning on the lathe accidentally with the chuck key still in the chuck, and flinging it across the
I have a JET 12 X 36 BD lathe of 1985 vintage. It a wonderful lathe for the type of work I do. Mostly hobby gunsmithing and making various parts for motorcycles and expedition vehicles. When I bought the lathe in 1995 it was box stock. It had been used in the Borden Pasta factory
I recently purchased a 2007 BMW K1200R Sport. As many folks report on the various web sites, some of these “wedge” bikes have fueling issues which leads to “snatchy” throttle response, surging at low speed and low RPMS, a “stumble” in the power curve at lower speeds and throttle and sluggish response from stop in
A few years ago, down at the Johnson City, TN BMW MOA Rally I saw a K 1200R “Sport”. Since this version of the K1200 “Wedge” bike was never cataloged and very few were ever imported into USA, I’d never seen one. The K1200S was always a great bike in my eyes, but the riding
Houston, we have a problem! Seems BMW simply can’t figure out how to keep a Cam Chain under tension. I had this problem with a couple oil heads I’ve owned and I read there is (was) an issue with certain F bikes. The symptom is that when you start your BMW motorcycle, especially if
If you spend any time on the various BMW “K” Bike forums you’ll soon find threads relating horror stories about 2005-2011 BMW K1200 and 1300 having the cam chain jump a tooth on the cam chain sprockets and the pistons slamming into the valves and destroying the motor. If this doesn’t get your attention some
Ball joints. Those little things on the bottom of the front control arms that hold just about everything together up there! When they go, or are worn out the front end of the car gets very sloppy and in some states, you won’t pass inspection. The Porsche 911 uses one ball joint on each control arm. The top of the control arm is located with the strut tower. This makes the job relatively easy as you are only replacing two ball joints total.
You can test for ball joint play by jacking the car up, using a pipe or a crow-bar under the front tire, lever it up and down. There should be no movement. No “clacking” noise. Nice and solid. Of course, movement could also spell bad wheel bearings, but many times you’ll hear bad wheel bearings and bad ball joints won’t make a noise.
Although my 1987 Porsche 911 has less than 50K miles, the front end has felt a bit loose. If I did the standard shock absorber test of bouncing up and down on the front bumper, the car would rebound twice before settling down. Ball joints were also needed so I figured I’d do it all at once. The article on ball joint replacement can be found on this same web site.
Jack the car up and place proper supports under. You are going to be really pushing and pulling on the wrenches and you don’t want it falling off a simple jack.
Note: I did this whole procedure without removing the disc brake rotor, caliber or front hub. It took about 30 minutes per side this way.