Bmw G650x Challenge Oil Change Proceedure

How to change the Oil on a BMW G650X Challenge:

First step is to get the engine up to operating temperature. A quick ride or let the bike idle until the fan turns on and then let it run for one minute more.
Shut the engine off. If possible, have the bike supported in an upright position, but you can perform the oil change with the bike on the sidestand.

You can purchase an Oil Change Kit from your BMW dealer. The kit includes the oil filter, an oil filter cover O-Ring and various crush washers.

For this procedure you will be using the large O-Ring, the large crush washer and the oil filter. You will not need the three small washers. (I’m still not quite sure what they are for…)

Remove the main drain plug on the bottom of the engine. Have an “oil drain pan” ready to catch the used oil.

Once the plug is out and the main engine oil is draining, remove the used copper crush washer and discard. The center of the drain plug is a magnet. There will be slight metal “fuzz” on the magnet. Wipe this off and install the new copper crush washer. Once all the oil is drained from the engine you can reinstall this plug. Turn until finger tight and then just a smidge more. Be careful, the bottom of the engine is aluminum and you can strip these threads very easily. Especially if you are using a long handle wrench.

Next, find a piece of rubber hose (5/16″ fuel line works good) about 12″ long. Place one end over the bleed valve from the oil tank. Yup, this bike uses a separate oil tank just like a Harley Davidson. Once this hose is connected and a suitable container is positioned below, open the bleeder valve a couple of turns. Oil will flow out of the oil tank. Be aware, this oil flows VERY slowly. It will take quite a few minutes to empty the tank. The yellow arrows shows the location of the bleeder valve with a piece of hose attached;

Let it drain into some type of container while we move to the other side of the bike.

Once on the right side of the motorcycle, remove the bolt holding the rear brake fluid reservoir to get it out of your way.There is a small toothed washer between the plastic tab on the reservor and the frame of the bike. Don’t drop it into the oil catch pan. 🙂
Use a short piece of wire or a piece of string to hold it up and away from the oil filter cover.

Take a piece of tin foil and make a “dam” of some type to direct the oil from the oil filter compartment into your catch pan. I removed the cover from the front chain sprocket to make more room, but this is an optional step. I forced the tin foil into the recess below the oil filter cover to direct the flow of oil into the catch pan below.

Remove the three bolts holding the oil filter cover in place.

Once the cover is off, you’ll appreciate the tin foils use. Without it this is a terrible mess.


Remove the oil filter

Use a clean rag to wipe out the oil filter compartment.

Remove the old O-Ring from the oil filter cover and install the new one supplied with the kit.

If someone suggests that your engine is made in China, this is proof it isn’t.


Rub a little oil on the rubber seal of the new oil filter and insert it into the oil filter cavity.

Reinstall the oil filter cover being sure the O-Ring is in it’s groove.

Re-install the rear brake fluid reservoir.

Once the oil has finished draining from the oil tank, close the bleeder valve and remove the rubber hose.

I wanted to be sure I removed all the old oil. The bike holds about 2 1/3 quarts. I poured the old oil into a two quart soda bottle and the remainder into another bottle. Looks like I got 95% of the old oil out.

Pour in one quart of oil and start the bike. Let it run about 10-15 seconds and shut it off.
Pour in another quart and start the bike again. Let it run for about 30 seconds.

Shut the bike off and pour in about 1/4 of a quart and start the bike again. Let it come up to operating temperature (fan on) and let it run one minute more. Shut the bike off and check oil level as instructed in the owners manual. Fill to proper mark on the dip stick.

Check for leaks. Tighten various drains as needed. Ride it like you stole it!


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25 comments on “Bmw G650x Challenge Oil Change Proceedure”

  1. George Gridley Reply

    Your posting of the oil change procedure for the X country saved my ass. My KTM 640 is also a dry sump but the methods of oil change are very differant. I was preping the bike ( an ’07 with 1200 miles for a trip in the rain to Rochester , NY ( 100 mile trip). I started the job but couldn’t finish it without your help…thanks. I will pay pal you some $ soon.

  2. Milos Reply

    Please i have problem measure the right level of the oil, question…
    Do I have to measure the oil level immediately after I turn engine off or i have to wait some minutes, Its seem that when i wait 15 minutes oil going toward Minimum.?
    BTW> I have did a regular service in BMW service shop (on 7200 km)and now I have almost 9200 km,,,a two days ago I have checked level end there was no oil….? I went in BMW and asked them to buy a litter oil for my XC, they told me for my bike its (BMW High Power Oil 15w-40)
    I put 400 ml inside and today i add 150 ml more,,,,,I have start the engine again and I have checked the level and its was on MAX, after 30 minutes it was between MIN an MAX….
    Engine is dry and there is no liking!
    I am comfused a bit, could you advise me how to check the oil level and is it ok for bike to use so much oil?
    Thank you
    Milos for Belgrade, Serbia

  3. Roy Bertalotto Reply

    Hi Milos,

    Yes, once again our friends from Germany make an easy job very difficult. Here is how I check the oil…..
    Ride for awhile; put it on the center stand or hold bike upright; wait 1 minute; remove the dipstick; wipe it off; stick it back in (without threading); read the level. Or, just look down in the hole. You should see some oil there.
    I would think your bike has been over filled. I can’t believe it is using that much oil. No harm will be done to the engine if overfilled, but you will have oil all over the place if you leave it to full. When you put the bike away tonight, tomorrow morning you are likely to have oil all over the floor!
    Hope this helps.

    • Milos

      Ok , thank you very much Roy….
      So it going that way……..and it was no oil under the bike this morning 🙂
      I was confused becasue as I have told you If I wait longer (10-15min) the oil goin down to MIN, that was strange to me, but when I checked after 1-2 min it was ok!

      Thank you, I will check again for 3-5 days and I will tell you whats going on!

      Regards Milos

  4. Milos Reply

    And one more thing,,,which oil and grade u are using?
    I am on 15w-40 BMW oil and I have 9300 Km..



    • RoyB

      I use Mobil 1, red top, 15W-40 in all my bikes, Porsche 911, Dodge Diesel pick up, wife’s Mercedes , lawnmower, generator, water pump, snowblower, coffee maker (just kidding on that last one)…..I’ve been using Mobil 1 in everything with an engine since 1979 and I’ve never had an internal part of an engine fail…..Why change if it ain’t broke!
      (BTW, BMW oil is very good. I wouldn’t be surprised if it wasn’t the same thing as Mobil 1)

  5. michael Reply

    A simplier way to remove the oil from the holding tank is to draw it out using a suction pump.You get most of it out and if you keep the oil clean with regular oil & filter changes, I can’t see any harm being done.

  6. YK Reply

    Thanks, picked up a new to me 2009 650 X-Country. Your guide answered all my questions. Cheers.

  7. Denis Murphy Reply

    Hey RobB
    Doesn’t Mobil 1 have a friction modifier in it making it unsuitable for wet clutch motorbikes?
    Thanks for the oil change procedure for my G650Xcountry. Pretty much the same as by Max Cool on the ADVrider forum but with some additionl good suggestions.
    Denis M

  8. Roy Bertalotto Reply

    Yes it does. But I’ve been using it in my wet clutch bikes for years with never an issue. Bikes start easier and seem to run cooler and smoother.

  9. Tyler Reply

    Thanks a lot. Directions were very easy to understand. Your website was a huge help.

  10. Bill Hargreaves Reply

    Excellent instructions. The photos and text guided me through a simple task, saved me ££££s and kept me busy on a rainy Sunday afternoon!

  11. Pingback: Anonymous

  12. andy vanklompenburg Reply

    I used a clear hose on the bleed screw (oil tank) and loosened the cap and waited till empty, about 10-15 min. I went ahead and unscrewed the bleed screw after pulling off the hose and about 2-3 oz came out and onto the floor. I think next time I will use my suction device I use to drain my inboard boat motors. Less messy and faster!

  13. Jeff Reply

    Hi…. This posting is really informative, I just can’t find the hose to disconnect and the bleeder valve to turn. Can add some pics on that wee the location is. Thanks

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  15. Diego Steffan Reply

    If you want to perform oil change first of all buy a oil change kit from a BMW dealer,however the kit contains three things Oil filter,an Oil filter cover O-ring and different type of crush washer and filter.For doing this you should follow this procedure use large O-ring,the large crush washer and the oil filter.Then remove the drain plug from bottom of the engine,get an “oil drain pan”,and be ready to collect the used oil.Once you plug is out,remove the used copper crush water and discard it.

  16. Palm Beach Garage Reply

    I believe it goes like this:

    keep the bike level and remove the drain bolt from the crankcase. Leave the adjacent banjo bolt in the crankcase, do not remove that. The oil in the crankcase should come out now.
    on the lower rear of the oil tank there is a bleed bolt, just like you find on a brake caliper. Shift a piece of fishtank hose on the bleed bolt and give the bleed bolt half a turn. The oil in the oil tank should come out now.
    After the bike has stopped leaking close the bleeder bolt, and install the drain bolt again (with a new crush washer please).
    Put the bike on the sidestand, and remove the oil filter cover to replace the oil filter element. And bolt it up again.

    Now it’s time to put new oil in the engine. Fill the oil tank to it’s neck with oil, and start up the bike. let it run for 15 second and kill it. (really important!!). Fill the oil tank up again until you have poured 2 quarts in total into the oil tank (which is slightly below 2 liters) . The engine and oil tank together are claimed to hold 2,3 liters of oil, but we don’t want to overfill.

    Fire up the engine, and let it warm up. Ride around the block and let it idle at least 1 minute until the fan comes on. Kill the engine and check the oil level. Add oil untill the oil level is the top mark on the dipstick (measure this with the dipstick not turned into the tank)

  17. Matt Reply

    Hi, I have oil filters and oil but need the O-ring for the filter and the crush washer for the drain plug. Can you tell me the size for each and perhaps a good source to buy a supply of them. Thanks so much.

    • Matt

      they have them for $3 at boneyard beemers. Great parts source! Love those guys, answer the phone on 2nd ring, no call routing, press 1 for X, etc.

      Here’s a link if you are searching… can be hard to navigate. They have filters and other basic maint parts as well.

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